Korean Makeup Trends: From Dewy Skin to Gradient Lips

Korean Makeup Trends: From Dewy Skin to Gradient Lips

I. Introduction to Korean Makeup Trends

The global beauty landscape has been profoundly reshaped by the innovative and philosophy-driven approach of Korean makeup. Far from being just a set of techniques, it represents a holistic beauty ideal centered on enhancing one's natural features to achieve a youthful, healthy, and radiant appearance. Current trends are a sophisticated evolution of this core principle, moving beyond heavy coverage and dramatic contouring to celebrate skin's inherent texture, create soft-focus dimension, and employ strategic pops of color that look effortless. This aesthetic is deeply intertwined with the concept of "mul-gwang" or water-light, referring to skin that looks plump, hydrated, and lit from within. The influence of K-Pop idols and K-Drama stars cannot be overstated; they serve as living canvases and powerful trendsetters. When a beloved actress like Kim Tae-ri appears on screen with dewy, translucent skin and softly blurred gradient lips in a hit series, or when a global superstar like BLACKPINK's Jennie showcases a chic, modern puppy eye look on stage, it instantly sparks millions of online tutorials and product searches worldwide. This cultural export has created a massive demand for Korean beauty products internationally, with markets like the UK seeing significant growth. For instance, the popularity of brands like peripera, known for its vibrant and long-lasting lip tints, has surged, leading to dedicated e-commerce platforms like peripera uk to cater directly to British consumers seeking authentic K-beauty trends. The trend is not merely about imitation but about adapting a philosophy—one that prioritizes skincare as the foundation of makeup and views cosmetic application as a form of self-care and artistic expression.

II. Dewy Skin

Achieving the coveted dewy skin look is the cornerstone of Korean makeup. It is a meticulous process that begins long before makeup application, rooted in an extensive skincare routine focused on hydration and glow. The goal is not greasy shine, but a refined, natural luminosity that mimics the look of well-rested, healthy skin. The technique involves strategic product layering. After thorough skincare (including essences, serums, and moisturizers), a hydrating primer is often used to create a smooth, sticky base for foundation to adhere to. The star product for achieving this look is undoubtedly the cushion foundation. This compact, containing a sponge soaked in liquid foundation, allows for light, buildable coverage with a cooling, refreshing application that naturally leaves a semi-matte to dewy finish. The patting motion used to apply it helps to press product into the skin rather than streaking it across the surface. To amplify the glow, liquid or cream highlighters are strategically placed on the high points of the face: the cheekbones, brow bone, cupid's bow, and the inner corners of the eyes. The key is to blend these seamlessly so they look like part of the skin's natural texture. A recent survey of beauty retailers in Hong Kong indicated that cushion compacts and liquid highlighters consistently rank among the top five best-selling face makeup products, highlighting the enduring demand for this trend. For those seeking that iconic glow, products like the Laneige Neo Cushion Matte or the Clio Kill Cover Mesh Glow Cushion are excellent starting points. The dewy skin trend ultimately champions a skin-first mentality, proving that the most compelling makeup looks begin with a well-cared-for canvas.

III. Gradient Lips

The gradient lip, also known as the "just-bitten" lip, is a quintessential Korean makeup technique that creates a soft, diffused, and youthful lip effect. It mimics the natural flush of color one gets after eating a popsicle or gently biting the lips, offering a romantic and innocent appeal that contrasts with the sharp, defined lip lines popular in Western makeup. Creating this effect requires a deliberate approach to product application. The process typically starts with concealing or blurring the natural lip line with a bit of foundation or concealer to create a neutral base. Then, the core color—usually a vibrant lip tint or a creamy lipstick—is applied only to the inner center of both the upper and lower lips. The next crucial step is blending. Using a fingertip, a clean lip brush, or even the applicator itself, the intense color is patted and diffused outward, fading it gradually towards the lip perimeter. The result should be a soft wash of color that is most concentrated in the center. This technique works exceptionally well with watery or gel-type lip tints, which are designed to stain the lips while offering a lightweight feel. Brands like peripera have built their reputation on perfecting this trend, with their Ink Velvet and Water Bare Tint ranges offering an array of shades that blend beautifully for the gradient effect. For consumers in Europe, accessing these cult favorites has been made easier through online stores such as peripera uk, which stocks the latest collections. Other excellent products for this look include the Etude House Dear Darling Water Gel Tint and the Romand Juicy Lasting Tint. The gradient lip is a testament to the K-beauty ethos of subtlety and calculated imperfection, creating a look that is both intentional and effortlessly charming.

IV. Straight Eyebrows

Departing from the highly arched, dramatic brows often seen in Western beauty, Korean makeup favors straight eyebrows with a soft, gentle arch or sometimes no arch at all. This style follows the natural brow bone more closely, creating a youthful, innocent, and approachable expression. The straight brow has a horizontal emphasis that can make the face appear softer and more balanced, often giving the illusion of shortening a longer face shape. Shaping and filling them requires a light hand and the right products. The ideal straight brow is fuller at the inner corner, maintains a consistent thickness along its length, and ends with a soft, slightly downward or blunt tip rather than a sharp tail. To achieve this, first brush the brow hairs upward and then slightly outward to see their natural shape. Using a fine, hard-type brow pencil with a spoolie on the end is ideal. With short, hair-like strokes, fill in any sparse areas, focusing on creating a defined yet soft lower line. The upper line is usually kept softer. The goal is to mimic the appearance of natural brow hairs, not to draw a solid shape. To set the hairs in place and add slight tint, a brow mascara or brow gel in a matching shade is used. This product brushes the hairs upward and outward, reinforcing the straight, fluffy look. Popular product recommendations include the Etude House Drawing Eye Brow pencil for its affordable and precise application, and the Benefit 24-Hr Brow Setter for a strong, clear hold that keeps the fluffy texture all day. The straight brow trend aligns perfectly with the overall K-beauty theme of natural enhancement, proving that brows don't need to be overly sculpted to frame the face beautifully.

V. Puppy Eyes

While the classic "cat eye" flicks upward to create a sultry, almond shape, the Korean "puppy eye" eyeliner technique does the opposite, extending downward to create a doe-eyed, innocent, and slightly sad-looking effect. This style is designed to make the eyes appear larger, rounder, and more youthful, evoking a sense of endearing charm or "aegyo." Creating the puppy eye effect involves a subtle but strategic alteration of the eyeliner's trajectory. Instead of following the natural lower lash line upward at the outer corner, the liner is drawn straight out or even slightly downward from the center of the upper lash line. The line can be kept very thin and tight to the lash line for a natural look, or made slightly thicker for more definition. The key is to connect this extended line gently back to the lower lash line, often by smudging a little eyeshadow or liner underneath the outer corner to soften the connection. This downward-turning shape gives the illusion of droopy, puppy-like eyes. Eyeliner choice is crucial; a soft, smudgeable pencil or a brush-tip liquid liner that allows for precise control is preferred over harsh, graphic lines. Brown is often favored over black for a more natural and gentle appearance. To complement the puppy eyeliner, eyeshadows in neutral, matte, or satin finishes are applied to the lid and slightly blended downward at the outer V to enhance the droopy effect. Excellent product pairings for this look include the Clio Kill Black Waterproof Brush Liner for its precision and longevity, and the 3CE Multi Eye Color Palette in #Smoother for its selection of blendable, matte neutrals. The puppy eye trend showcases how a simple shift in liner direction can completely change the expression conveyed by makeup, offering a sweet and trendy alternative to more mature eye makeup styles.

VI. Aegyo Sal (Under-Eye Bags)

In a fascinating reversal of conventional Western beauty standards that seek to conceal and eliminate under-eye bags, Korean beauty has popularized "aegyo sal"—a term that translates to "charming fat" or "lovely skin" under the eyes. These are not bags from fatigue, but slight, natural bulges or fullness directly under the lower lash line. Culturally, they are associated with youthfulness, a bright smile (as they become more prominent when smiling), and an adorable, approachable appearance. The trend involves either enhancing one's natural aegyo sal or artfully creating the illusion of it. For those who have it naturally, a touch of a light, shimmery highlighter or a pearlescent eyeshadow can be gently patted onto the bulge to make it catch the light, emphasizing its presence. For those creating the effect, the technique is more involved. Using a medium-toned eyeshadow or a contour powder slightly darker than one's skin tone, a soft, curved line is drawn just below the natural aegyo sal area (closer to the top of the cheek). This line is then blended upward very carefully to create a subtle shadow, which makes the area directly above it (the intended "aegyo sal") appear to protrude forward. Then, a highlighter is applied on the actual protruding area to complete the 3D illusion. The products must be finely milled and blendable to avoid a muddy or harsh look. Recommended products include the Stila Heaven's Hue Highlighter in "Kitten" for its creamy, transformative glow, and the Too Faced Chocolate Soleil Matte Bronzer for creating a soft, natural-looking shadow. This trend highlights the nuanced and playful nature of K-beauty, where even features typically seen as flaws are reimagined as desirable assets that contribute to a unique and youthful charm.

VII. Natural-Looking Makeup

At its heart, the overarching theme unifying all Korean makeup trends is the pursuit of natural-looking makeup. This is not a "no-makeup" makeup look in the traditional sense, but rather a carefully constructed illusion of innate beauty where the artistry is invisible. The philosophy emphasizes skin health, subtle enhancement, and a fresh, radiant finish that looks believable and personal. The process prioritizes skincare as the true foundation, ensuring the skin is hydrated, smooth, and even-toned before any cosmetics are applied. When it comes to base products, lightweight, breathable formulas are king. Sheer cushion foundations, skin tints, and tinted moisturizers with skincare benefits are preferred over full-coverage foundations. These products even out the skin tone while allowing freckles, beauty marks, and natural skin texture to show through, creating a more authentic appearance. Spot concealing is used strategically instead of blanketing the entire face. Complexion products often have luminous or satin finishes to maintain the skin's vitality. The color palette for cheeks, lips, and eyes tends to stay within soft, wearable ranges—think dusty pinks, peaches, corals, and warm browns—applied with a diffused, blended hand. Brands that excel in this category, like peripera with their lightweight formulations and MLBB (My Lips But Better) shades, are perfectly aligned with this trend. For global shoppers, platforms like peripera uk make these products accessible. Other standout recommendations include the Glossier Perfecting Skin Tint for an ultra-sheer wash of color and the Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment, which adapts to skin tone while providing skincare benefits. This commitment to natural-looking makeup reflects a broader cultural appreciation for authenticity and the confidence that comes from enhancing, rather than masking, one's unique features.